Step building is and art. It is reserved for the professional paver installer or mason and should not be entered into without serious research. It is very time consuming and there is no room for error. Here is a simplistic view of how this is done.
1. Dig a basin into the slope of your grade change approximately 16 inches deep and about 12 inches wider than the planned width of the steps. Only dig 3 inches below grade at the lowest point of the steps (the base of the first riser).
TIP: Build your paver projects for the steps out. Fill the bottom of the basin with 3 inches of very thick concrete. Place three rows of Rumbled Wall on the mixture to the desired with. Anchor Windsor Stone® can be used but each void between the stones would have to be filled with mortar.
2. Mortar set three rows of Holland StoneΓäó pavers on the surface of the Rumbled Wall in the soldier course pattern. Be certain that you have pre-designed the width so the pavers modulate to the wall stones.
3. Fill the back of this first structure with concrete, level to the back of the basin. While the mixture is stiffening but still workable, lay one row of Rumbled Wall on top of the back row of Holland StoneΓäó pavers.
4. Add two more perfectly level rows of Rumbled Wall behind this first row in the same configuration as your initial layer of Rumbled Wall.
5. Mortar set the Holland StonesΓäó just like you did in Step #2.
6. This can be repeated to attain almost any height. When youΓÇÖve completed your top step begin your paver project from the last row of soldier course Holland StoneΓäó outward.
Things to know:
A. The combined height of the 4-inch wall unit and the paver with ┬╝-inch mortar mixture is 6 5/8 inches. This is a good step height. Check with your local building codes to be certain you are within local regulatory guidelines.
B. Your steps must be set back far enough into the slope of your yard to hide the back row of Holland StoneΓäó on each tread.